Fast Skiff 14 - Study Plans
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THB Steinhatchee Florida

She takes wakes nicely and dry. Top speed was 21.7 mph with my 15 hp 2 stroke yamaha ( craigslist special ). Wi...
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A simple, economical, easy to build and fast small planing boat.

Specifications:
LOA: 14' 4,27 m
Max. Beam: 65" 1,65 m
Hull weight: 185 lbs. 84 kg
Designed displacement/draft 585 lbs/5" 265 kg/12 cm
PPI at DWL: 220 lbs. 100 kg
Depth/Freeboard 32"/27.5" 82/70 cm
Capacity weight/persons per USCG 950 lbs/ 5 persons 430 kg/ 5 persons
Outboard recommended/USCG 6 to 15 HP/25 HP 5 to 12 kW/18 kW
Material: Stitch & Glue composite

The Fast Skiff 14 has a program similar to our FL14 with a major difference: she is designed as a planing hull, without rocker and a moderate vee.
She is designed for a first time builder and is an excellent introduction to the material and the building method we use for our large power boats: true composite hull, simple set up on a jig made of a pair of 2 by 4's.

Speed and HP.
At 600 lbs displacement, at WOT, the max. speed will be:
6 HP : 18 mph
10 HP: 23 mph
15 HP: 28 mph.
This is for an engine in good condition at wide open throttle.
In other words, the FS14 will plane with 2 light or one large person and a 6 HP outboard.

The USCG calculations give a maximum of 25 HP with tiller steering. We consider 25 HP excessive on that size boat, not only because of the speed but because of the weight of the engine on the transom. The same calculations also produce a max. number of persons = 6. We find that excessive and recommend max. 5.


We show a standard layout that can be customized.
The middle frames should stay where we show them because they cover the butt blocks.
The other frames can move if necessary.
From the bow, we cover the bow part of the boat with a casting deck. There is plenty of storage under that fore deck with access through an opening in the frame.
The middle seat is sealed but can be fitted with openings or a hatch.
The aft deck allows a person sitting on it to steer the boat without having to lift the tiller in turns.
The aft deck shows a cut for the outboards clamps and fuel fitting.
We also show a hatch that is simple to build, does not require hardware but stays in place even in rough weather.

The boat will be well balanced with a tiller man sitting on the aft deck and a passenger or two forward but when single handed, the tiller man should sit in the middle and use a tiller extension. A tiller extension is a simple PVC pipe.

This is not particular to our boats!
All small boats are sensitive to weight distribution and it is good seamanship to keep the boat properly trimmed.

The plans show limber holes and a notch in the frames to run a fuel line from the bow to the stern, along a stringer.

The transom is designed for a standard 20" shaft but can be cut lower or raised higher if you have a different shaft length.

There is a small skeg (keel) that helps tracking and protects the bottom.

Our assembly method uses butt blocks that are hidden under the mid seat and act as locators during the construction: no need to measure the location of the frames and the butt blocks are invisible!

Comparisons:

Difference between the FL14 and FS14:

The FL14 is a displacement hull. That means that she will move easily through the water at displacement speeds, with oars or a small outboard. The FL14 will not plane even with a large outboard because of the rocker in the hull. The transom of the FL14 is above the waterline at normal trim and she can be lighter than a planing boat.
The FS14 is a planing hull without rocker. A planing boat must withstand heavier bottom loads and the transom must be able to transmit the thrust of the engine to the hull. For those reasons, the planing boat hull must be stronger and heavier. With her immersed transom, the FS14 will not row as well as the FL14.

Building method:
The FS14 can be built in two different ways: with or without a jig.

The FS14 can be built the same way than the FL14 and other small boats, by the sharpie method. The hull is shaped by bending the side panels around the frames and transom and the bottom panel is added. .

Our detailed building notes show a better and more precise method using a jig made of a pair of 2x4's and two sawhorses.

We set up the frames upside down on the 2x4 and plank that jig with the bottom and side panels.
This method guarantees a straight bottom, essential for good performance at planing speeds.
It does not increase the amount of labor, quite the opposite. The inside fiberglassing is much faster with this method.

The method is identical to the one used for large boats but does not require a true jig.
The design was engineered for ease of building: the seat tops and aft deck are used as a building base and the frames are used as mold. The only temporary mold is a small bow mold.
All the dimensions for the frames and transom(molds), bow mold, stringers and even the 2x4's used to support the frames, are on the plans. There is nothing to calculate or to loft.

The FS14 is build the same way than the FS12. See the FS12 study plans page for a detailed overview of the building process .

Required Skills:

If you plan to build a larger power boat, the FS14 is an ideal first boat. You will build the FS14 using all the techniques required to build a larger boat but at a small scale, on a very simple jig and using very little materials.

As all our stitch and glue boats, the FS14 is easier to build than other plywood or fiberglass boats.
We worked hard to keep the building as simple as possible: most of the plywood cuts are straight lines, the nice curves are created by well planned bending around the frames.
All the plywood parts have been precisely calculated: you cut them flat on the floor, no need for templates, no need to take measurements from the hull framing as in the plywood on frame method.

This boat can be built fast by a first time builder. He should read our tutorials first but there is nothing difficult in the building method. No beveling, no tricky adjustments, no lofting at all, no calculations of any kind: we show dimensions for all the parts on the plans.

Options:

Access under casting deck: the builder can leave the frame full and cut an hatch in the top.
Front seat: he can also replace the casting deck with a plain bench but that will require the addition of a breasthook.
Middle seat: optional cuts in the frame for access or hatch in the top (shown on the plans).
Aft deck: you can leave the top in one piece and provide access through a cut in the frame.
We do not show strakes, they will not add much to performance and tracking.
You can not omit the stringers, sorry. They are part of the structure that stiffens the bottom but you can cover them with a sole, fixed or removable.
You can add a spray rail. This would be a simple batten, quarter round section, epoxy glued along the edge of the chine.

An important option is buoyancy.
You can make tour FS14 unsinkable by pouring two part foam in strategic locations.
The building notes suggest to pour the foam in unusable corners. The hull floats by itself: the density of our material is less than water (or plain fiberglass) but you will need foam to support the weight of the engine and the crew.

There is no "heavy duty use" option. The hull is very strong as designed with a bottom of the same strength than some of our 19 footers.

Bill Of Materials:
(Excerpts from our BOM)
The BOM list materials based on our standard layout and includes a 15% waste factor for fiberglass. For plywood, we use standard sheets 4' x 8' (122 x 244 cm). Please read the building notes and see the plans for detailed specifications.
We recommend Marine grade plywood BS1088 for the hull, either Meranti or Okoume. Meranti BS6566 is acceptable as is marine Fir plywood or exterior plywood with no voids.
Note that exterior or marine fir without voids is difficult to find and that fir or exterior will check.

Plywood 4x8' (122x244cm)
1/4" (6mm) 4  
3/8" (10mm) 3  
Fiberglass (totals)
Biaxial tape 6oz. 110 yards 100 m
Biaxial fabric 12 oz. 17 yards 19 m
Resin
Epoxy, total 6 gallons 24 liters

Cost:
The cost of materials varies depending on your location, your choice of epoxy brand, plywood type and options. Use our Bill Of Materials with the local cost of materials or add our kits cost.

All materials are available for purchase online from the web sites below:
Epoxy, fiberglass, foam, paint and more: BoatBuilderCentral.com
Plywood: Plywood store at E-Boat.

Despite the cost of shipping, those materials may cost cost less online than purchased locally.

Labor:
The hull can be build in 20 hours but a finished boat will require 40 hours or more depending on the level of detail and the skills of the builder.

More:
Visit our message board, help pages, tutorial pages and read our FAQ: most questions are answered there.

Plans Packing List:

6 detailed drawings with all dimensions required to cut the side panels, bottom panels, bulkheads, seats and all parts from flat plywood sheets: no lofting, no templates required.

Nesting drawings for the best plywood layout, all parts nested.

  • Drawings list:
  • B276_1 Concept drawing
  • B276_2 Plywood nesting for all parts.
  • B276_3 Frames
  • B276_4 Hull and Deck panels
  • B276_5 Construction and lamination schedule .
  • B225_c: Detail drawing for seat locker lid with framing and assembly view.
  • Specific building notes for this boat with Bill Of Materials.
  • Help files reference list and more.

Reviews:

THB Steinhatchee Florida

She takes wakes nicely and dry. Top speed was 21.7 mph with my 15 hp 2 stroke yamaha ( craigslist special ). Will probably do more with the bimini top down. She should cruise pretty nicely at 18 mph or so which is just fine for this type of boat.

Supplies:
All supplies to build this boat are available from our online stores :: epoxy/glass/paint and more :: plywood

  

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