specifications are approximate and subject to changes in function of the
mood of the designer and the skills of the builder . . .
design started with an old plan for plywood on frame. Somebody asked us
if we could redesign it for stitch and glue, change the sheer line and
modify the layout in the style of the old Boston Whaler®. At almost the
same time, we had two requests for a boat in the style of the Bass Tracker®.
Each of these boats had a garvey hull. Demands for Carolina Skiff® and
Boston Whaler® type boats appear regularly in our email and we sketched
several versions of Whaler type boats including a small Hickman's sled.
This time, we decided to finish it. (For those interested in the history
of the Boston Whaler®, please visit this
drafted a new hull based on the bass boat and the old plywood design with
completely new lines for easy bending of plywood and 100% developability.
The structural design is also 100% different: a true composite monocoque
new boat is 200 lbs lighter but stronger than an equivalent plywood boat.
She is also much easier to build. The Boston Whaler® and the plywood boat
to which we compare our design are, for the same length, 500 to 550 lbs!
cockpit is self bailing: even with a heavy load, the sole stays well above
the waterline, an unusual feature in a boat of this size.
Our boat has a cleaner and more efficient hull shape than the Boston Whaler®:
a true vee hull with chines almost straight in plan view and a wide deck.
It shows a good combination of stability with a roomy deck on a vee hull
that will run much smoother than a Carolina Skiff®.
The program of the boat is clear: a comfortable, roomy and stable platform
for family outings or fishing in protected waters. While the vee hull
can take a nasty chop at high speed, she does not have enough freeboard
for offshore use.
Thanks to her reduced weight, she will plane at the same speed than, for
example, a Boston Whaler® but with much less HP and will use less fuel.
She can be made 100% unsinkable with the addition of buoyancy foam.
Here is a performance report from a builder, boat fitted with a 50HP.
3500rpm=13mph (Started transitioning to planing)
The boat really liked to sit in that 4800-5000rpm range where I was cruising at a sweet 26-27mph. This was just with the standard 12pitch Yammi aluminum prop.
construction is epoxy-fiberglass-plywood composite, a second-generation
stitch and glue system designed for efficient and fast building.
This building method combines the ease of stitch and glue (plywood-epoxy)
with the strength, lightweight, longevity and low maintenance of a high
tech composite hull.
The hull material is a fiberglass sandwich with a plywood core.
The builder assembles the hull as a plywood boat first, then builds the
outside and inside fiberglass skins to produce a strong composite hull
without all the time consuming woodwork associated with plywood on frame.
We specify high performance directional glass and epoxy. While that type
of fiberglass cost a little bit more, we save on resin and weight.
All planking panels have been precisely calculated: you cut them flat
on the floor, no need for templates, no need to take measurements from
the hull framing as in the plywood on frame method.
internal framing is characteristic of a fiberglass or composite boat:
a monocoque structure made of interlocking bulkheads and stringers, tabbed
to the hull and fiberglass chines and keel.
hull can be built without any jig, the sharpie way and also upside down
on a simple jig. The plans give all the dimensions for each method including
specifications fro the optional jig.
jig picture shows another boat hull)
Our jig system is very uncomplicated, self-aligning and economical since
we use the internal framing of the hull as molds. Our jig does not require
all the precautions, alignments or even a perfectly flat floor that are
a must for traditional boat building.
See a complete hull building
all our stitch and glue boats, the GV15 is easier to build than other
plywood or fiberglass boats. No woodworking skills or special tools are
required. The plans include all dimensions and some full size patterns
to cut all the hull parts flat on the shop floor. No scarfing required.
While she can be build as a first project, some experience with our building
methods will save time and materials. If you have never build a boat,
try our free canoe plans first.
The plans show all the plywood parts, even the smallest ones, with dimensions,
including the assembly notches, the outboard clamp etc.
The small side console is also shown on the plans.
are many options to consider but the first one should be positive and
upright buoyancy (unsinkable boat).
This can easily be easily achieved with our marine flotation foam. For
production boats in that size, the USCG requires upright floatation.
plans show several layouts: the simple two benches across with casting
deck forward, a three benches version for tiller steering and the small
side console for remote steering. A larger center console is another option,
we show two types, with or without seat. In the US, keep in mind that,
depending on the type of steering the USCG rates max. HP differently.
You can however use any HP you want as long as you decide to name it an
'experimental" craft. We show simple options like the side grab rails,
small bow pulpit etc.; with part numbers in the building notes included
with the plans.
boat is very easy to customize: on the flat floor, almost any layout can
boats transom is designed for a standard 15" shaft. The transom can
easily be modified to accept other shaft lengths.
from our BOM)
BOM list materials based on our standard layout and includes a 15% waste
factor for resin and fiberglass. For plywood, we use standard sheets 4'
x 8' (122 x 244 cm). Please read the building notes and see the plans
for detailed specifications. Meranti 6566 is
an inexpensive type of marine ply ideal for stitch and glue construction.
It cost, on the average, less than $ 20.00 a sheet in 1/4" (6mm). Okoume
or Meranti marine can also be used and cost starts at less than $ 40.00
a sheet (1/4").
scantlings are very generous: this boat is overbuilt but despite that,
thanks to the material, she is still much lighter than most boats in her
See our kits and add the cost of plywood. In 2002, in Florida, using marine
plywood, the estimated cost is $1,200.00.
The hull can be build in 80 hours but a finished boat will require 200
hours or more depending on the level of detail and the skills of the builder.
Visit our message board, help pages, tutorial pages and read our FAQ:
most questions are answered there.
detailed drawings with all dimensions required to cut the sides, bottom,
bulkheads, deck, floors and all parts from flat plywood sheets: no lofting,
no templates required.
Nesting drawings for the best plywood layout with numbered parts.
drawings showing assembly with notches, parts numbers for most of the
hardware such as hatches, fuel fill, inspection plates etc.
layout drawings including two different center consoles, two benches
version, one for tiller steering and one small side console.
size patterns for all frames and transom.
Plan & profile, arrangement
Plan & profile, structure
Hull Panel Dimensions
Frames and Transom
Mold Frame Construction
Internal Structure Assembly
Casting Deck and Motorwell
Seats and Deck
FS patterns for all frames and transom
Standard Center Console and Notes
on a jig" file including a detailed description of the assembly
sequence and building tips.
building notes for this boat.
console building notes.
files reference list and more.
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All supplies to build this boat are available from our online stores :: epoxy/glass/paint and more :: plywood
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