Another addition to our line of flats boats!
The Flats Stalker is a simple but rugged and easy to pole boat designed for hardcore skinny water sight fishing. It is designed for tiller steering first and has a clean open layout that is easy to customize. It will pole effortlessly into the wind and against the tide thanks to it's narrow and shallow hull. Hull slap is almost nonexistent thanks to the absence of spray rails and low chine design. There is even an option showing a rounded chine towards the bow.
Most of our other flats boats designs have an extra wide beam. This gives us a large water plane and results in a very shallow draft. The best example is the XF20 in which we extended the water plane area in an extreme way: 2" draft in a boat that can handle up to 5 people with gear. There is unfortunately a price to pay when poling: you can't easily pole such a wide boat.
Several of our builders requested a narrow light skiff.
Those boats exist since more than 100 years in the Everglades, the concept is not new. Our FS18 is not as narrow as the traditional Everglades Skiff, but it is easy to pole and more stable.
The FS18 has the same waterline beam and is just as stable as some fiberglass production boats 1' wider at the deck.
This is a tiller boat but many will install a grab rail in the middle, maybe on a central box. Controls and some small electronics can fit on the grab rail. Stick steering could be nice too.
The FS18 has a self bailing cockpit. Hull draft at 1,100 lbs is 4" and the top of the sole is located well above that.
The FS18 will easily fish two people and you can fish three if necessary. The front deck is big with room for a casting platform. There is usable storage underneath the front deck, even with a portable fuel tank.
There is room for rod storage under gunwales: cut notches in the frames.
At the bow, the sides raise a little bit above the casting deck. That little edge is not in the way of a trolling motor mount. It is max. 4" at the tip , only 2" where one normally mounts the trolling motor. Most of the trolling motor mounts clear the deck by more than 2". If not, it is easy to make a raised mount from a couple of layers of plywood epoxy glued to the deck. Another solution is to cut a notch where the motor mounts or to cut the sides down and make her a flush deck but the sheer line will not be as pretty.
However, for those who prefer the flush deck (straight sheer) look, the plans include the dimensions for that version. Only the side panel is different.
200 to 265
90 to 120 kg
Hull draft at 765 lbs:
The ideal outboard is between 10 and 15 HP. Per USCG calculations. max. HP can be 25 HP but the designer finds this excessive. Don't think in terms of an 18' boat, think of a 250 lbs 4-1/2' wide boat!
Loaded at 1,000 lbs, with a 25 HP = 32 mph, with a 15 HP, 25 mph.
At 800 lbs, 28.5 mph with a 15 HP.
USCG tag: max. HP = 25. Capacity persons and gear: 765 lbs or 4 persons.
Hull weight: depending on the skills of the builder and options, between 240 and 265 lbs. The FS18 can be build lighter, see the options paragraph.
Hull draft is just that, the skeg adds 1" but even with the skeg, 3.5" isn't bad.
At a very heavy displacement of 1,110 lbs, hull draft is only 5" .
The construction method is stitch and glue. It makes for a very stiff
and strong yet light boat. As with all our plans, no lofting is
The FS18 is build the same way than our FS12 and FS14: upside down on a pair of 2x4's. The hull panels are installed around the frames and we use the decks as a base. See the FS12/14 study plans for details. There is also a long thread on our forum showing the FS12 assembly with plenty of pictures and comments. The FS18 is build the same way.
All our boats are very sturdy. This one will be able to crash on an oyster bed at 25 mph without sinking. We could make it lighter but there would be a price in toughness..
There is nothing difficult about building a skiff this way: a boat
like this one goes together fast and easy. There are no plywood scarfs:
we use very simple fiberglass splices.
Our building method involves cutting plywood panels flat on the shop floor
with moderate precision, from the dimensions give on the plans. Long panels
are made of smaller pieces joined with fiberglass splices. We use standard
plywood sheets only. No lofting, no calculations, no delicate beveling
No woodworking skills or special tools are required.
Besides the grab rail and stick steering mentioned above, the builder has complete freedom to change the layout as long as he keeps 3" wide frames where we show them. Decks can be made longer or shorter, a central box containing a bait well will be a nice addition.
- Light weight: You could build an FS18 without a deck, just with a rubrail and get the weight down to 160 lbs. With a small engine (15 HP) and 2 person onboard, that would give a hull draft of 2.5 " at level trim.
- Cut transom for 15" shaft. The standard transom is designed for the most common shaft in that size, 20" but it is easy to cut the transom 5" lower if you want to use a 15" shaft.
- straight sheer (flush deck)option. The plans show dimensions for a side panel cut down to create a straight sheer. This will make the Flats Stalker look like some fiberglass production boats.
- Central bench: the plans show the dimensions for an extra frame in the middle of the boat used to support an optional thwart (seat across the beam).
- Zero hull slap: the plans show a rounded chine option. Note that with that low chine and no spray rails there is almost no hull slap with the hard chine but for those who want the ultimate, we show an optional rounded chine.
This rounded chine is a simple transition from plywood sheet planking to strips, at the chine, close to the bow. No need to purchase strips, we cut 3 slits in each panel, topside and bottom, round the corners of the two forward frames and that's all there is to it.
The round chine extends almost 7'. This is not really necessary since only the 3 last feet of the chine are above the waterline but it produces a smooth transition.
The aft part of the chine is the classic planing boat hard chine. It gives lateral dynamic stability at planing speed and since it is below the waterline, produces no hull slap.
That option is easy to implement for anybody who has a built at least one stitch and glue boat. All the dimensions are on the plans: each slit is shown.
To make the boat unsinkable by pouring two part foam under the sole is a highly recommended option. For a professional builder in the USA, it would not be an option: all boats of that size must have upright floatation. This is achieved by pouring foam under the sole, filling some space under the aft deck with foam and gluing foam sheets under the gunwales.
from our BOM)
BOM list materials based on our standard layout and includes a 15% waste
factor for resin and fiberglass. For plywood, we use standard sheets 4'
x 8' (122 x 244 cm). Please read the building notes and see the plans
for detailed specifications.
We recommend marine plywood, Meranti or Okoume for this boat. Okoume is
lighter but more expensive. Marine fir or quality exterior with no voids
is acceptable but may cost more if you want to avoid checking. To keep
fir from checking, you will need to cover the entire surface with a layer
of epoxy/fiberglass. This of course adds weight, cost, and time.
|| 145 m
|| 12 m
Our BOM's are based on material usage by a moderately experienced builder. First time builders will use more resin and waste more glass.
The cost of materials varies depending on your location, your choice of
epoxy brand, plywood type and options. Use our Bill Of Materials with
the local cost of materials or add our kits cost.
materials are available for purchase online from the web sites below:
fiberglass, foam, paint and more: BoatBuilderCentral.com
Plywood: Plywood store at
the cost of shipping, those materials may cost cost less online than purchased
The average construction time for the hull is 70 hours ready for sanding
Visit our message board, help pages, tutorial pages and read our FAQ:
most questions are answered there.
- B279_1: Specifications
- B279_2: Nesting of all parts on standard plywood sheets
- C279_3: Hull lines, stations, stringers, transom dimensions.
- D279_4: All hull and deck panel dimensions.
- D279_5: Construction: sections and exploded perspective view with notes, lamination schedule.
- B279_6: Rounded chine option showing cuts to make in bottom and side panels plus rounded frame corners.
Detail drawing for seat locker lid with framing and assembly view.
building notes for this boat
Of Materials (included in the notes)
files reference list and more
toddinbr Maurepas Louisiana
I started my build the end of January 2014 and completed it in August.
If you are on the fence about building a boat, just do it. This forum is awesome and its full of builders that want to help you succeed! Also Bateau has the best support and prices.
AtTheBrink Texas Coastal Bend
Could not be more pleased with this boat! She floats super shallow, 5 inches and still floating with a full load and 2 guys aboard. Runs comfortably in the mid 30's(plenty fast for a little boat like this). Poles like a dream, tracks very well (no skeg, motor tilted complete out of the water). The ride is nice and soft, no pounding. It can be wet if you are quartering into the waves but there isn't much freeboard to protect you from the splash. Overall it's a great little boat that does exactly what it is designed to do!
And she looks great doing it too! I have gotten so many complements at the boat ramp and on the water. Makes you feel good knowing that your hard work is appreciated!
Ahahn Corpus Christi Texas
I haven't poled it yet, but she handles nicely. There wasn't a lot of chop, but I went through some boat wakes with no trouble. She planes out very quickly and I estimate low twenties with a 15 hp and my lonesome self in the boat. I expect mid-twenties by myself once I get a jack plate and adjust the motor to my liking; probably low twenties with another soul on board. Really pleased with performance, even without the strake.
All supplies to build this boat are available from our online stores :: epoxy/glass/paint and more :: plywood
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